The old town is full of small pubs and cafes. The Black Horse on Church Street is the historical pick — tiny, old, full of Yorkshire ales and brewing its own beer upstairs. The Duke of York at the foot of the 199 steps has views over the harbour from its bay windows; the White Horse and Griffin on Church Street has been a coaching inn since the 17th century.
For coffee and cake during the day, Sherlocks on Flowergate roasts its own beans and Botham's Bakery sells excellent Yorkshire fat rascals, lemon buns, and Whitby spice loaf — they have been baking since 1865.