Tucked into Henrietta Street on the east side of the harbour, Fortune's is the last working smokehouse in a town that once had dozens. The Fortunes have been smoking herring here since 1872, and the brickwork around the chimney is permanently blackened by 150 years of oak smoke.
You can buy fresh-smoked kippers (whole, on the bone) from the small shop in the morning; ask politely and the family will sometimes show you the smokehouse itself. The flavour is firmer, less salty, and far more interesting than any supermarket version. Vacuum-packed kippers travel surprisingly well if you want to take some home.