The Crown Liquor Saloon on Great Victoria Street is the most spectacular Victorian pub in Ireland and one of the finest in the world. The exterior is covered in coloured tiles; inside, the gas-lit interior is a riot of carved wood, stained glass, mosaics, and ornate plasterwork. The private booths along one wall — each with its own gas light and a bell to summon service — are particularly fine.
The Crown is owned and preserved by the National Trust, which takes maintenance seriously. You can have a pint here in a setting that has changed almost nothing since the 1880s. The Guinness is good and the bar food is Ulster-style: sausage rolls, pies, and the essential Ulster Fry. Go in the early evening before the tourist crowds arrive.