Derry is compact enough to walk in a day, but its history demands more time. The walls are the obvious starting point — a complete circuit of the seventeenth-century defences that gives you the whole layout of the city at a glance. From the walls you can look down into the Bogside, where the civil rights movement played out in the late 1960s and where the murals still tell that story in vivid colour.
Beyond the Troubles narrative, which dominates but does not define the city, there is medieval cathedral architecture, a world-class town museum, and a growing arts scene concentrated around the former Ebrington Barracks across the Peace Bridge.