La Désirade has a handful of small restaurants and guesthouses that serve food — nothing elaborate, nothing pretentious, everything fresh. The cooking is Creole, the fish comes off boats that morning, and the menu follows what was caught rather than the other way round. Look for accras de morue (salt cod fritters), court-bouillon de poisson, grilled langouste (spiny lobster), and lambi (conch) prepared in a sauce chien or stewed with tomatoes and peppers. Lobster here costs a fraction of what it would anywhere with a tourist infrastructure.
Most restaurants are clustered in Grande-Anse, the main village. A few smaller lolos operate near the other settlements along the coast. Hours are relaxed and kitchens sometimes close early if the day's catch is gone — arrive with flexibility and without a tight schedule.