Guatemala is compact enough to visit several very different landscapes and cultures in a single trip. Here is where to start.
Tikal — The greatest Maya ruin in Guatemala. Temples rising above the jungle canopy, howler monkeys at dawn, and a scale and atmosphere that no photographs quite capture. Allow two days.
Antigua — The Spanish colonial capital, set between three volcanoes, with some of the best-preserved baroque architecture in Latin America. A comfortable base, good food, and a lively expat and student scene. Walking the ruined churches and cobbled streets is genuinely beautiful.
Lake Atitlán — A volcanic caldera lake of extraordinary beauty, ringed by Maya villages and three volcanoes. Worth at least three days to move between villages by boat. Each village has a different character and its own weaving tradition.
Chichicastenango market — Thursday and Sunday. One of the most vibrant indigenous markets in Central America, where Q'iche' Maya traders come from across the western highlands. The Church of Santo Tomás has been the site of a blend of Catholic and Maya ceremony since the 16th century.
Quetzaltenango (Xela) — Guatemala's second city is real, unhurried, and set deep in K'iche' Maya culture. Good Spanish schools, volcanic hiking, and considerably fewer tourists than Antigua.
Volcán Acatenango — An overnight hike from the flanks of this dormant volcano offers a front-row view of neighboring Volcán de Fuego erupting through the night. One of the great hiking experiences in Central America. Cold, strenuous, and unforgettable.
Semuc Champey — Natural limestone pools over the Cahabón River near Cobán. Turquoise, layered, surrounded by jungle. Worth the effort to get there.
Livingston and the Rio Dulce — The Caribbean coast feels like a different country. The gorge approach by boat, the Garífuna culture in Livingston, and the Lake Izabal waterways are all rewarding if you have time to reach them.