The town is small enough to walk in an hour. The market near the main road is lively in the mornings with local produce, and the working wharf gives a sense of what the place is actually about beyond the resort trade. Stay into the late afternoon if you can — the light that falls on the bay at that hour is the quality the Spanish name refers to, and it is worth seeing. The golden-orange cast on the water is not a travel-brochure exaggeration.