Carmel-by-the-Sea is a small, artsy village on the Monterey Peninsula in California, known for its white-sand beach, its fairytale-cottage architecture, and its exceptional concentration of galleries and boutiques. The town has more art galleries per capita than almost anywhere in the United States — a legacy of the artists and writers, including Robinson Jeffers and Sinclair Lewis, who settled here in the early 20th century. Jeffers's Tor House, a stone tower he built by hand above the sea, is open for weekend tours and gives a vivid sense of the rugged, visionary character that once defined this coast.
Yes, Carmel is expensive and somewhat precious, with strict rules about street addresses, signage, and even the wearing of high heels (a genuine local ordinance). But the underlying beauty is real. A short drive south brings you to Point Lobos State Natural Reserve, one of the most spectacular stretches of California coastline, where sea otters float in the kelp and sea lions bark from the rocks. Go in the morning on a weekday if you can — Carmel and Point Lobos both get crowded, and the fog usually burns off by midday.