Laili is the best restaurant in downtown Santa Cruz, serving Afghan and Mediterranean food in a warm, atmospheric space on Cedar Street behind Pacific Avenue. The menu centres on kabobs, slow-cooked lamb dishes, and the flatbreads and dips of Central Asian cuisine — done carefully, without the corners-cutting that affects many ethnic restaurants in tourist-oriented towns.
The lamb kofta and the mantu (Afghan dumplings filled with lamb and onion, served with yogurt and tomato sauce) are reliable choices. The dining room is candle-lit and the bar good. Reservations are a good idea Thursday through Saturday.