Rustic Canyon on Wilshire is the kind of restaurant that gives California cuisine its good reputation — serious about ingredients without being precious about it, seasonal without lecturing the diner, and unpretentious despite doing genuinely sophisticated cooking. The menu changes frequently based on what the chefs are getting from farmers and foragers, and the wine list is thoughtfully chosen.
The room is warm and not too loud, the service professional without being stiff. It has the feel of a neighbourhood restaurant that happens to be very good, which is exactly what it is. Book ahead for weekend dinners.