Des Moines Art Center

The Des Moines Art Center is one of the best small museums in the Midwest, both for its collection and for the building it lives in. The permanent collection runs from Edward Hopper and Georgia O'Keeffe through Francis Bacon, Mary Cassatt, and Jasper Johns; contemporary holdings include strong pieces by Andy Goldsworthy, Olafur Eliasson, and Ai Weiwei. The galleries are intimate, so you can spend a focused two hours and feel like you've actually seen everything.

Admission is free. The museum sits on the edge of Greenwood Park, where the Pappajohn name shows up again on the Rose Garden, and the cafe inside is a genuine lunch spot rather than a desultory afterthought. Allow time to wander the sculpture park out front and the Pei-designed central court, which doubles as an event space and is worth ten minutes on its own.

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A story
Three of the twentieth century's most important architects each added a wing in sequence: Eliel Saarinen designed the original 1948 building, I.M. Pei added the brutalist sculpture court in 1968, and Richard Meier finished the trilogy in 1985. Visiting the museum is, incidentally, a free crash course in postwar American architecture.

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