Torrey

Tiny gateway town at the western entrance to Capitol Reef National Park.

Torrey is a tiny town at the western entrance to Capitol Reef National Park, one of Utah's least-visited but most rewarding national parks. The setting is spectacular — red rock cliffs rise directly behind the town, and the Waterpocket Fold stretches for a hundred miles to the south.

The town itself is just a handful of lodges, a couple of restaurants, and a gas station, but that is part of the appeal. Torrey is the quiet alternative to the more developed gateway towns around Zion and Arches. From here you can drive the Capitol Reef Scenic Drive, hike to Hickman Bridge natural arch, pick fruit at the Gifford Homestead orchard, or head south on the Burr Trail for some of the most dramatic desert scenery in the American West. The strange moonscape of Factory Butte is 30 miles to the north-east and worth a detour for its sheer otherworldliness.

Torrey sits at 1,900 metres and has a dark-sky designation — light pollution is minimal and the Milky Way is visible on clear nights. The Heritage Starfest, held each September, brings astronomers and telescopes to the area for a weekend of public stargazing events.

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Getting There

Torrey is remote. The nearest city with commercial flights is Salt Lake City, about 4 hours north on Highway 24 via Interstate 70 (the western section of I-70, around Salina, is worth a look — it crosses some of the most dramatic canyon country in the US). There is no public transport to Torrey. You will need a car.

From Las Vegas, the drive is about 4.5 hours via I-15 and Highway 20. From Bryce Canyon, about 1.5 hours north-east via Highway 12 — a scenic road that is one of the best drives in Utah in its own right. From Moab and Arches/Canyonlands, about 3 hours west. Gas up before entering the park or in Torrey — the next stations are 80+ miles in any direction.

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Things to Do

Almost everything of note near Torrey sits inside Capitol Reef National Park, 11 miles east via Highway 24. The town itself is a handful of buildings, but it provides the services — gas, food, lodging — that make an extended stay in this remote corner of Utah practical. The area rewards those who stay longer: Capitol Reef is large, varied, and far less crowded than Zion or Arches.

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When to Go

Spring (April–May) and autumn (September–October) are the best times to visit Torrey and Capitol Reef. The temperatures are comfortable for hiking — daytime highs of 15–25°C — the light is excellent, and the crowds are manageable. Spring brings wildflowers in the canyon bottoms and the occasional flash of green in the orchards.

Summer (June–August) is hot — temperatures regularly exceed 35°C and can touch 40°C in the canyon bottoms. Heat is dangerous in slot canyons. Flash floods from distant thunderstorms are a genuine hazard in narrow canyons; always check the forecast. The park is also at its busiest in July and August.

Winter (November–March) is cold and unpaved roads may be closed by snow or mud. The park is quiet and the low-angle light spectacular on clear days. The Gifford Homestead and some services in Torrey are closed in winter.

Torrey sits at 1,900 metres elevation, which means cooler nights than the canyons suggest — bring layers even in summer.