La Rioja's café culture centres on the main plaza and the streets immediately around it. The pace is unhurried, and a coffee mid-morning or a glass of wine in the early evening is how people spend their time between the heat. Avoid venturing out between midday and around 5 pm in summer — even the locals don't.
Evenings come alive gradually. The plaza fills up after dark, bars open late, and the city's young population tends to eat dinner well after 10 pm. Craft beer is increasingly available, but the local torrontés wine remains the most satisfying drink after a hot day in the desert.