La Rioja has a distinct regional cuisine shaped by its Andean and mestizo heritage. The dish to order is cabrito al horno — slow-roasted kid goat, often seasoned with local herbs and served with locro or roasted vegetables. Humita en chala (seasoned corn paste steamed in corn husks) and empanadas riojanas, filled with spiced meat and hard-boiled egg, are everywhere and excellent.
The city is in wine country. La Rioja province produces torrontés, the aromatic white that has become one of Argentina's signature grapes, along with malbec and syrah. Most restaurants will have a respectable local wine list; a glass of chilled torrontés with a plate of empanadas is as good an introduction to the province as you'll find.
Most restaurants are concentrated around the city centre and along Avenida Ortiz de Ocampo. Standards are generally good, prices are low by Argentine urban standards, and a full dinner with wine rarely costs much. Lunch is the main meal; many places close in the afternoon and reopen for dinner around 9 pm.