Salta is one of Argentina's most rewarding cities — a beautifully preserved colonial centre in the Lerma Valley, ringed by mountains in the country's north-west. Known as "Salta la Linda" (Salta the Beautiful), it earns the nickname: the plaza, cathedral, and surrounding streets feel genuinely alive rather than museum-piece.
The city centre is compact enough to cover on foot. Plaza 9 de Julio is the heart of things, flanked by the salmon-pink Salta Cathedral and the Cabildo. Spend a morning wandering the streets around it and you'll quickly get a feel for a city that takes pride in its architecture without being precious about it. The Iglesia San Francisco on Caseros is the most spectacular single building. At the top of the same street, the San Bernardo Convent has an extraordinary carved wooden door from 1762. Above the convent, the hill of Cerro San Bernardo offers the best views of the city via cable car or a long staircase. Back in the centre, the Museum of High Altitude Archaeology is unmissable — it houses the Children of Llullaillaco, three Inca mummies found at 6,739 metres. Locals fill the plaza cafes in the evenings; this is a city that still has a functioning street life.
Beyond the colonial centre, Salta is a superb base for exploring one of Argentina's most dramatic landscapes. The Quebrada de Humahuaca and the salt flats of Jujuy are within reach, and the route through the Calchaquí Valleys to Cachi is among the most beautiful drives in the country. The Tren a las Nubes makes a full-day excursion up to 4,220 metres, crossing the famous La Polvorilla viaduct. The altitude is noticeable — the city sits at around 1,150m, and day trips often climb much higher.