Entrada del Gran Poder

La Paz's biggest annual festival, a massive street procession of dance and costume in May or June

The Entrada del Gran Poder is La Paz's biggest annual celebration, a street procession in honour of the Señor del Gran Poder (Lord of Great Power) that takes over the city on the last Saturday in May or first Saturday in June. Over 40,000 dancers in elaborate costumes move through the streets from the Cementerio General area to the San Francisco neighbourhood, accompanied by brass bands, drums, and wind instruments in a rolling performance that goes on for most of the day and into the night.

The dances are specific and traditional — morenada, caporales, tinkus — each with its own costume, history, and meaning. The morenada originated among enslaved Africans brought to work Bolivia's silver mines, the caporales reference the foremen who supervised them, the tinkus re-enact a ritual battle. Watching from the street is free; raised stand seats are sold in the weeks before. Book accommodation well in advance if you're coming specifically for Gran Poder — the city fills up.

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Gran Poder began in the 1930s as a small devotional procession in the Villa Pabón neighbourhood, organised primarily by Aymara merchants. It grew slowly until the 1970s and then exponentially — today it brings over 40,000 dancers and 10,000 musicians into the streets, making it one of the largest folk festivals in South America. The cholita women who dance in it spend months and significant money on their costumes; participation is both a religious act and a serious social statement.

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