The Mercado Central on Rua Alberto Nepomuceno, a short walk from the cathedral, is the best place in Fortaleza to buy Ceará's distinctive handicrafts under one roof: lacework (renda de bilro), woven hammocks in every colour and price range, cachaca from the Cariri region, leather goods, carved wood, ceramics, and small bottles of coloured sand — a local tradition. The building has four floors of stalls; the ground floor is more touristy and fixed-price, while the upper floors have more variety and room to negotiate.
The hammock section is worth visiting even if you do not buy — the variety is staggering, from cheap single-person examples to elaborate double-bed hammocks with wooden spreader bars and hand-stitched macramé fringes. Cachaça stalls offer tastings of aged and flavoured varieties. The basement food court is a cheap option for lunch: grilled meats, tapioca pancakes, and the regional bean and meat stews that constitute everyday Cearense cooking.