The municipal market, in a low building on Avenida 21 de Mayo, is where the fishermen, the housewives and the small restaurant owners do their morning shopping. Upstairs is a handful of cheap, simple cocinerías — open kitchens with a few stools — where you can eat plates of grilled hake, fried merluza, or shellfish empanadas for very little money.
The downstairs hall is more about the produce: king crab in season, mussels and clams by the kilo, smoked salmon and trout, dried beans and Patagonian sausages. Mornings are best. Most stalls are closed by 4 p.m.