Eating Out

Paisa cooking is heavy and meat-heavy: the famous bandeja paisa is a single plate piled with beans, rice, chicharrón, fried egg, arepa, chorizo, plantain, and avocado — designed for a farmer working dawn-to-dusk, not for a city evening. Hacienda Junín downtown and Mondongo's in Poblado serve the classic version. The smaller, lighter Antioquian staples — arepas with cheese, chocolate caliente for breakfast, sancocho stew — turn up everywhere. For something more contemporary, El Poblado holds the bulk of the city's serious restaurant scene: Carmen, Hatoviejo, El Cielo (Colombia's only Michelin-rated kitchen), and dozens of newer places on Provenza. The barrio of El Centro is the cheapest end — Plaza Minorista has a downstairs hall of stalls where lunch costs little more than a coffee in Poblado.