La Terraza, on the north side of the Plaza Mayor, has the best position in town for an end-of-afternoon drink. The terrace overlooks the cobblestone square, and as the sun drops behind the mountains the light on the colonial facades turns gold. Order a cold beer or a glass of wine and watch the square fill with evening walkers.
The kitchen produces ceviche and pasta — not spectacular, but decent enough if you don't want to move after sunset. In the evening it converts fully to a bar, with a lively weekend atmosphere that is unusually animated for a town that otherwise rolls up fairly early.