The Plaza Mayor and the streets around it are where Villa de Leyva's cafe life concentrates. The town is primarily a daytime destination — most places open early for breakfast and coffee — but on Friday and Saturday evenings in holiday season the square comes alive. Pastelería Francesa, two blocks from the square, is the best breakfast spot. La Terraza, on the northern edge of the Plaza Mayor, has the finest position in town for a sunset drink. El Cortijo, a few blocks away, is the locals' choice for live music and cold beer in the evening.