Ciudad del Este

Paraguayan frontier boomtown at the Triple Frontier, driven by border trade and nearby Itaipú Dam

Ciudad del Este is Paraguay's second city and the strangest place in the country — a chaotic frontier boomtown on the Paraná river, 327 km east of Asunción, where Paraguay, Brazil and Argentina meet at the Triple Frontier. It was founded in 1957 to anchor the Paraguayan side of the border, and ballooned in the 1980s and 1990s into one of South America's biggest contraband bazaars. Electronics, knock-off perfume, counterfeit watches and bootleg DVDs pour across the Friendship Bridge from Brazil every day; on a busy Saturday you can barely move on Avenida San Blas.

It is, to be blunt, not a pretty city. It is crowded, hot, polluted, famously unsafe after dark, and most travellers use it only as a hinge between Iguazu Falls (on the Argentine and Brazilian sides) and the Itaipú Dam, the second-largest hydroelectric dam in the world, which straddles the Paraná a few kilometres north of town. Both are genuinely world-class sights and easy half-day trips. If you come here, come for them, keep your valuables hidden, and don't linger downtown after sundown.

What the city does have — beyond sheer commercial spectacle — is a surprisingly cosmopolitan character. The Arab community, many of Lebanese descent, is economically dominant and architecturally visible: the Mezquita del Este is the largest mosque in Paraguay. The Friendship Bridge itself is worth walking across once, just to experience the procession of Brazilian shoppers hauling goods in both directions.

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Day Trips

The reason most travellers pass through Ciudad del Este is to visit Iguazu Falls, a short bus or taxi ride across the Friendship Bridge into Brazil (the Brazilian side offers the panoramic views; the Argentine side, reached in about an hour via a second border crossing, puts you right on top of the falls). Most visitors stay on the Brazilian side in Foz do Iguaçu and make both sides a two-day trip.

The second essential day trip is Itaipú Dam, 15 km north of the city, with free tours and a visitor centre. Combine it with the Itaipú ecological refuge and its small zoo of animals rescued when the dam's reservoir flooded the forest.

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Eating Out

Ciudad del Este's food reflects its border-town mix: Paraguayan staples like sopa paraguaya (a savoury cornbread), chipa guasú (corn and cheese pudding) and grilled asado, alongside Brazilian and Lebanese places serving the city's significant Arab community. Downtown restaurants are mostly functional rather than memorable; for something nicer, head to the hotel restaurants along the Super Carretera that link the city to Itaipú.

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Getting Around

The downtown shopping area is small enough to walk, but getting to Itaipú, the airport or across the border to Foz do Iguaçu is easier by taxi — they are cheap and plentiful. Local buses run up the Super Carretera to the dam. Avoid walking anywhere in or around the city after dark.

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Getting There

Guaraní International Airport (AGT) serves Ciudad del Este with domestic flights from Asunción and limited international connections, though most visitors arrive overland across the Friendship Bridge from Foz do Iguaçu, Brazil — a ten-minute walk or taxi ride that involves two border stamps if you are clearing both immigration posts. Long-distance buses run from Asunción (about five hours on the paved Ruta 2), and night buses continue on to Brazilian cities further east.

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Shopping

Ciudad del Este has been called the biggest shopping mall in South America, and for better or worse it lives up to the nickname. The heart of it is Avenida San Blas, a kilometre of stalls and arcades selling cheap electronics, imitation designer gear, perfume, alcohol and tobacco, all subject to Paraguay's famously lax import duties. Brazilians and Argentines cross the Friendship Bridge every day to shop here.

Two warnings. First, a lot of the goods are counterfeit or stolen, and real deals on serious electronics are rarer than they used to be. Second, pickpocketing is rampant — keep your passport and most of your cash in the hotel safe, and carry only what you can afford to lose. Leather goods from Paraguay's cattle country are the genuine bargain.