Al Toke Pez is a tiny counter-seat cevichería in Surquillo — six stools at a bar, no tables, no decoration, run by Tomás Matsufuji, a former PhD chemist turned cevichero. The menu is six or seven dishes chalked on a board, all under 30 soles: ceviche, arroz con mariscos, jalea, chicharrón de pescado. The fish is dispatched straight off the morning market.
Lunch only; closed Sundays. Cash. Expect a queue from noon, especially Saturday. This is what every food critic in Lima recommends to friends arriving for the first time — the best ceviche in town for a fraction of the price of Miraflores.