Isolina is the most consistently brilliant of the Barranco mid-range restaurants — a taberna criolla that serves the food of Lima's grandmothers in oversized portions designed to share. Chef José del Castillo cooks from the recipes of his mother and grandmother: causa rellena, cau cau (tripe stew), ají de gallina, slow-braised seco beef, tacu tacu with steak.
The dining room is a brightly lit two-storey 19th-century house with chequered tile floors and waiters in white shirts. Portions are huge — a starter and a main split between two people is plenty. Order the home-made chicha morada to drink. No reservations for fewer than four; come early or expect a wait.