La Mar is the cevichería of Gastón Acurio, the chef who arguably started the whole Lima food renaissance in the 1990s. It serves classic ceviche, tiraditos, causas, and Peruvian-Pacific seafood at a single seating from noon until early evening — there is no dinner service. The atmosphere is high-energy, with white-shirted waiters carrying plates between a dozen full tables, the bar pouring pisco sours in batches, and the kitchen open behind a long counter.
No reservations; arrive at noon or expect a wait of an hour or more by 1pm. The signature dish is the cinco esquinas tasting plate of five ceviches. La Mar has now franchised across the Americas, but the Miraflores original is still the best.