Eating Out

Puno is not a foodie destination, but it eats well in its altiplano way. The two essential local dishes are trucha del lago (lake trout, grilled or in a milk-and-herb soup called chairo) and cuy chactado (flattened guinea pig fried whole — a regional delicacy you should at least try once). Quinoa, fava beans, and freeze-dried potato (chuño) appear in nearly every traditional meal.

The strip of Jirón Lima is lined with tourist-oriented restaurants — Mojsa, IncaBar, Colors Restaurant — that serve workable versions of the standard Peruvian repertoire (lomo saltado, ceviche, pisco sours) at moderate prices. For better and cheaper local food, the upstairs food stalls at the central market serve excellent set lunches. Cusco-quality high-end cooking is rare here; expect mid-range comfort rather than fireworks.