The commercial centre of the Puno region and the city through which most air travellers arrive at the lake. Juliaca, 45 kilometres north of Puno, is a working trade city rather than a tourist destination — chaotic streets, an enormous open-air market, and the regional airport (Inca Manco Cápac, code JUL) handling flights from Lima, Cusco, and Arequipa.
Most travellers transit through Juliaca without stopping; there is little here in the way of conventional sights, the central plaza is unremarkable, and the city's reputation for petty crime keeps most visitors moving on. If you do find yourself with time to fill, the enormous Sunday market is genuinely impressive and the church of Santa Catalina on the main square is worth a quick look. Otherwise, take the next colectivo to Puno (around an hour) or pick up a connecting flight.