Venezuelan food is the great surprise for first-time visitors. The national dish is pabellón criollo — shredded beef, black beans, rice, and fried plantain — but the daily staple is the arepa, a thick maize patty griddled and split open, then stuffed with everything from shredded chicken (reina pepiada) to black beans and fried cheese. Hallacas, the Venezuelan version of the tamale, are a Christmas tradition wrapped in plantain leaves. The coast contributes ceviches and grilled fish; the Andes contribute trout and corn breads. Venezuelan cacao, grown around Chuao, is among the world's finest.
The best eating is in the eastern neighbourhoods. Las Mercedes has the highest concentration of contemporary restaurants — chef-driven kitchens working with local ingredients despite the difficult import environment. Altamira and La Castellana have classics: the Italian and Spanish restaurants that arrived with mid-century European immigration, plus a strong showing of Lebanese and Portuguese food. El Hatillo, the old hill village, has more traditional Venezuelan places set around its colonial square. Street food — especially arepa stalls and cachapas (sweet corn pancakes) — is everywhere and inexpensive.
Prices in dollar terms have risen sharply in recent years, with many higher-end restaurants now charging Miami prices. Reservations are recommended at the better places, and most settle bills in US dollars.