Ngaoundéré's central market spills across several blocks near the mosque. The animal section at the eastern edge — cattle, sheep, goats and the occasional camel — is a reminder that this is still very much a Fulani livestock town. Closer to the centre you find heaps of dried fish from Lake Chad, sacks of millet and sorghum, leather sandals, woven mats and indigo-dyed cloth.
It is hot, dusty and loud, especially on the busiest days (Wednesday and Saturday). Bring small change in CFA francs and be ready to bargain. The leather-worked saddles, scabbards and bags are among the best buys in northern Cameroon.