2014 Lava Fields

The lava fields from the 2014 eruption are one of the most striking sights on Fogo. From the road approaching Chã das Caldeiras, the black basalt flows are visible spreading across what was once cultivated land, their edges sharp and jagged. Up close, the scale is extraordinary: lava metres deep, still looking fresh enough to be from last week, with the occasional ruin of a building visible at the edges.

Walking on the fields is possible — the lava is solid and cool — though the surface is rough and good footwear is essential. Local guides in Chã das Caldeiras can show you the buried church and explain the course of the flows. The contrast between the devastation and the rebuilt village just metres away is one of those things that takes time to process.

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A story
When the 2014 eruption began in November, lava flows moved through Chã das Caldeiras at a pace that gave residents time to leave but not to take much with them. The flows continued for three months. By the time they stopped in February 2015, the church, the cooperative winery, and most of the village's homes had been buried under metres of black basalt. You can walk to the edge of the old church — only the bell tower is still visible — poking up through solidified lava.

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