Lake Chad once ranked among the largest lakes in Africa. Since the 1960s it has lost roughly 90% of its surface area, a combination of climate change, drought, and upstream irrigation. What remains is a shallow, marshy expanse of open water, reed beds, and islands, shared between Chad, Cameroon, Nigeria, and Niger.
The lake is still home to fishing communities who work from traditional reed boats, the same design that inspired Thor Heyerdahl when he built his transatlantic vessel Ra in 1969. Heyerdahl recruited a crew from the Lake Chad region to construct the papyrus boat. The first attempt failed mid-Atlantic when the crew cut a crucial structural line, but a second vessel, Ra II, built by the same Chadian craftsmen, completed the crossing to Barbados.
Visiting the lake is possible as a long day trip from N'Djamena, though the most interesting areas along the northern shore require a drive of 300 km or more. The small town of Bol on the lakeshore is the usual base. There is no formal lodging; you camp. A 4x4 is essential for the deep sand along the shore.
The lake and its surroundings are ecologically fragile. The hippos that were once common have largely disappeared, and the shrinking waters have created tension between farming and fishing communities. It is a fascinating and sobering place to visit, a living illustration of environmental change.
Warning: Do not wade or swim in the lake. Bilharzia (schistosomiasis) parasites are present in the water. The Lake Chad region also has significant security concerns; check current travel advisories before planning a visit.