N'Djamena, formerly Fort Lamy under French colonial rule, is the capital and largest city of Chad. It sits on the Chari River across from Kousseri in Cameroon, and it is where nearly every trip to Chad begins and ends. It is not a city you visit for its own sake, but it has its own rough charm if you give it time.
The city has been battered by decades of civil war and political instability. Much of the colonial-era architecture is gone, and the infrastructure is basic even by Sahelian standards. But the markets are lively and worth exploring. The Grand Marche in the center of town is the main commercial hub, a sprawling warren of stalls selling everything from textiles to spices to motorcycle parts. Smaller neighborhood markets are scattered across the city and are often more interesting to browse.
The National Museum has reopened after being looted during the civil war. Its collection is modest but includes artifacts from the Sao civilization and some fine examples of Chadian craftsmanship. It is worth a visit if you have a spare afternoon.
N'Djamena is the logistics base for expeditions to the Ennedi Plateau, Ounianga, and Zakouma National Park. Tour operators, vehicle hire, permits, and supplies are all arranged here. The city has a small selection of hotels and restaurants catering to aid workers, diplomats, and the occasional traveler. Expect high prices for modest quality.
The nightlife scene is small but spirited. A handful of clubs and bars come alive on weekends with Chadian and Congolese music. Security in N'Djamena is unpredictable. Stay alert, avoid walking at night, and keep up with current conditions.