A small, beautifully preserved Art Nouveau coffeehouse tucked into a back alley off Manshia Square, where you can drink Turkish coffee at marble tables under a stained-glass skylight that is more or less unchanged in 140 years. The setting is far more elegant than the prices and the unassuming exterior would suggest.
The café serves traditional Egyptian coffee, mint tea, shisha (water pipe), and small snack-style dishes. The clientele is mostly local working men playing dominoes and backgammon — visitors are welcomed but should expect curious looks rather than tourist polish. The location is easy to miss; ask for 'qahwa Ali el-Hendy' near Manshia Square. Best in the morning when the skylight is at its most striking.