Alexandria's food scene revolves around seafood, and the city does it better than almost anywhere else in Egypt. The fish restaurants along the corniche and in Abu Qir are the main draw, but there is good eating across the city.
Fish Market (Souk el-Samak) -- The classic Alexandria experience. Choose your fish from the market display, have it weighed and priced, then take it to one of the adjoining restaurants where they will cook it to order -- grilled, fried, or baked. You pay for the fish by weight plus a small cooking fee. The results are superb and remarkably cheap.
Abu Qir seafood restaurants -- The fishing town of Abu Qir, east of the city, has a string of restaurants right on the waterfront serving the day's catch. Zephyrion is the most famous, a grand old place that has been serving fish since 1929, but the smaller places along the beach are often just as good and cheaper.
Koshari -- Egypt's national street food is everywhere in Alexandria. Layers of rice, macaroni, lentils, and chickpeas topped with spicy tomato sauce and crispy fried onions. Filling, cheap, and vegetarian.
Greek Club Restaurant -- Located in the Greek Club in the Bahari district, this is one of the better restaurants for both seafood and grilled meat. The setting has more character than most.
Mohammed Ahmed -- A legendary fuul and falafel spot near the city center that has been packing in locals for decades. The fuul medames (slow-cooked fava beans) is rich and flavorful, and the taamiya (Egyptian falafel made with fava beans rather than chickpeas) is crisp and herby. A proper Alexandrian breakfast.