Finding a good bar in Alexandria takes some patience. The city has four million people, but much of its old social life has been displaced by shopping malls. What survives is worth seeking out.
Cap d'Or is one of the last traditional Alexandrian bars -- colored windows, a long marble bar for standing and sipping, and old objects on the walls that invite speculation. Old French songs and Egyptian hits play from a tape player whose crackle adds more atmosphere than any modern sound system could. The food is good too: calamari, shrimp, and fresh fish, all best accompanied by a cold Stella beer. If you are lucky, the liuto player will be performing.
San Giovanni Night Club, inside the San Giovanni Hotel, is one of Alexandria's more established nightlife venues. Belly dancers, live music, and visiting entertainers keep things lively from 10:30 pm until 4 am.
Blacklight Club (236 El Cornish Street, Al-Azarita) is a pub-club hybrid open every day from 10 pm to 4 am. The music ranges across genres and the atmosphere is casual. A decent option for a late night out on the corniche.
Aquarious Discotheque, inside the Montazah Sheraton Hotel, is probably the most upscale club in the city. The marine-themed decor and views of the Mediterranean give it character. The music mixes Arabic and international hits, and the kitchen serves a full menu alongside the cocktails.
Al-Fouad Bar, in the El-Salamlek Palace Hotel, opens at 11 am and runs through to 2 am, making it equally suited to afternoon piano music and late-night cocktails. The service is attentive and the setting, inside the old palace, is hard to beat.
Qatr El-Nada Garden, also at the El-Salamlek Palace Hotel, offers open-air drinking with live music and sea views. The garden breeze on a warm evening makes this one of the most pleasant spots in the city for a drink.