Alexandria's shopping scene ranges from traditional souks to modern malls, and the contrast between the two tells you a lot about how the city is changing.
Local Markets
The traditional open markets, or souks, are concentrated on the western side of Midan Tahrir. Here you will find antiques, papyrus, clothes, and household goods in a labyrinth of narrow streets where shopkeepers encourage haggling and the coffee houses are full of men discussing the news. Attarine Souk is the most rewarding for visitors -- a maze of alleys too narrow for cars, lined with bargain shops selling everything from spices to second-hand clothes. The souks reflect a generational divide: younger Alexandrians prefer the malls, so the markets tend to attract an older, more traditional crowd.
Note that markets close early on Fridays for the Muslim day of prayer.
Shopping Malls
For a more Western experience, Alexandria has no shortage of modern malls. The larger hotels, including the Hilton, have their own shopping complexes. The Deeb Mall is popular with both locals and tourists, offering Wi-Fi, art galleries with Egyptian and international painters, and antique shops selling finds from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. You will find everything from high fashion to electronics, though the atmosphere lacks the character of the souks.
Mall hours are also affected by Friday prayers -- some shops close early.