Malabo is the capital of Equatorial Guinea, set on the northern tip of Bioko Island between the cloud-capped peak of Pico Basile and the open waters of the Gulf of Guinea. It is one of the smallest and least-visited capitals in Africa — and one of the wealthiest on paper, thanks to offshore oil revenues that have transformed the skyline but done little for most of the population.
The city has real character in its older quarters. St. Elizabeth's Cathedral and the colonial-era streets around the Plaza de la Independencia reflect Spanish rule and the upheavals that followed independence in 1968. The Malabo Market is the best place to observe daily life. The infrastructure has improved dramatically since oil money began flowing in the 1990s, but Malabo remains expensive and bureaucratically complicated for independent travellers.
A trip to Luba or even Riaba is absolutely worthwhile. It gives an impression of the island's scenery that the capital cannot. The road south to Riaba passes through banana plantations and the green Moka Valley with its crater lake — the most rewarding drive on the island.