Temple of Yeha

The Temple of Yeha is 80 kilometres northeast of Axum on a good road — about two hours by vehicle — and is one of the most compelling day trips from the city. The temple is a rectangular structure of coursed, dry-laid ashlar masonry that stands to its full original height of about twelve metres. The precision of the stonework is extraordinary: the blocks are perfectly fitted without mortar, their surfaces dressed flat. Around 2,700 years of weathering have done relatively little damage.

The small museum beside the temple holds Sabaean-inscribed objects recovered from the site, and the caretaker can explain the ongoing archaeological work. A Christian church occupies part of the temple's precincts, and the juxtaposition of the ancient and the current religious use gives the place an unusual layered quality. The road to Yeha passes through good highland scenery.

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The Temple of Yeha is thought to be the oldest standing structure in sub-Saharan Africa — built around 700 BC by the D'mt kingdom, a civilisation so little documented that its extent and even its name are uncertain. The temple's builders had connections with the Sabaean kingdom of what is now Yemen, and the script used in Yeha's inscriptions is a variant of the ancient South Arabian alphabet. When the Aksumite kingdom converted to Christianity in the 4th century, a church was established within the temple ruins and is still in use today.

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