Kumasi is the heart of the Ashanti kingdom and Ghana's second city. It is sprawling, busy, and culturally rich -- a place where traditional chieftaincy, gold, and kente cloth are not museum exhibits but part of everyday life.
The Manhyia Palace Museum tells the story of the Ashanti kings and is the main tourist attraction. The current Asantehene (king) still holds court here, and the Akwasidae ceremony held every six weeks is a spectacular display of traditional authority. Kejetia Market -- one of the largest open-air markets in West Africa -- is a chaotic, colourful sprawl where you can buy everything from yams to car parts. The Prempeh II Jubilee Museum and the old British fort are also worth visiting.
The village of Bonwire, about 30 minutes from the city, is where authentic kente cloth is woven on hand looms. You can watch the weavers at work and buy directly. Lake Bosumtwi, a crater lake 30 km southeast, is sacred to the Ashanti and a good spot for a quiet swim.
Kumasi is also an excellent transport hub. It sits at the junction of routes to Accra, Tamale, Cape Coast, and the Brong Ahafo Region. STC and VIP buses connect to all major cities.