Lamu Old Town occupies the eastern shore of Lamu Island, a small, dense grid of two- and three-storey coral-stone houses pressed against the seafront. The streets behind are too narrow for any vehicle wider than a donkey, and most of them are too narrow for a donkey with a load — daily life happens at walking pace, on foot, in the shade.
The pleasure of Lamu is doing very little. Spend a morning walking from the southern end of the harbour up past the fort and museum, looking at carved doors, watching kids play around the water taxis, and stopping at one of the cafes for spiced coffee. Come back at sunset when the call to prayer comes from a dozen mosques at once. Two days here will leave you wanting two more.