Each evening at dusk, the porters arrive with hundreds of trestle tables, gas lights, and clouds of charcoal smoke, and Jemaa el-Fna transforms into one of the largest open-air dining rooms in the world. The stalls specialise: numbered booths for grilled meats and merguez, others for snails in spiced broth, sheep's head and trotters, harira and bissara soups, and bowls of stewed beans.
Eat where it is busiest with locals rather than where the touts shout loudest. Prices should be agreed before you order. The food is genuinely good, the bill is small, and the experience is the closest thing in the city to time travel.