Wandering the markets is one of the great Dakar experiences. Sandaga, the huge, chaotic market near the centre, is where to go for cloth, wax-print fabrics, electronics and just about everything else. Kermel, a covered market in a 19th-century French iron hall (rebuilt after a 1993 fire), is calmer and good for souvenirs, flowers and fish. Soumbédioune on the Corniche Ouest is the handicraft village and the fish market — go at the end of the day when the pirogues come in and the boats unload their catch onto the beach. HLM is where to buy fabric by the yard if you want something tailored before you leave.