The Test Kitchen has held its place near the top of the African restaurant rankings for over a decade, and the reasons are not hard to find. Chef Luke Dale-Roberts runs an ambitious kitchen in a converted warehouse at the Old Biscuit Mill, producing two tasting menus — a lighter "Light Room" sequence and a more elaborate "Dark Room" progression — that draw on European technique and southern African ingredients in equal measure. Dishes are intricate without being fussy; the wine pairings are strong.
Book at least two to three months ahead. Walk-in chances at the bar exist but are rare. The Old Biscuit Mill location means you can pair a Saturday market visit with an evening here, though the restaurant is open Tuesday to Saturday for dinner only.