KwaMuhle — "the good one" in Zulu — was the Department of Native Affairs office during apartheid, the place where Africans came to apply for the passes that controlled their lives. Since 1996 it has been a museum of Black urban experience in Durban, with reconstructions of the pass office, the beer halls, and the hostels, and an excellent exhibition on the 1949 anti-Indian riots.
It is one of the most powerful museums in South Africa and gets nothing like the visitor numbers it deserves. The building itself is a fine 1930s art deco block. Free entry, weekday opening only.