The fish market on the beach in the centre of the old town is the most reliable bit of theatre in Bagamoyo. The dhows come in at dawn — outriggers, dugouts, and full-size Lamu-style dhows — and the catch is auctioned on the sand within an hour, often by a single auctioneer working through one species after another while the crowd presses around him.
The best time to watch is from about 6 am to 9 am. The catch is heavy on kingfish, tuna, octopus, and prawns, with the occasional small shark. By mid-morning a handful of women have set up grills at the edge of the market and will cook the fish for you with rice and ugali — the cheapest, freshest seafood lunch in Tanzania. Bring cash in small denominations.