The nightlife in Sihanoukville is heavy on Chinese-run casino bars and a thinner survivor population of older expat and backpacker hangouts.
Otres is where the more characterful evenings happen — beachfront bars with hammocks, fire shows, and a quietly weather-beaten crowd. Big Easy is the longest-running expat bar in the city centre and is still going. Led Zephyr and Coasters on Serendipity Beach Road catch a younger backpacker crowd.
For coffee, the Kampot Pepper Cafe on the road into town does a decent cup, and several Vietnamese-run cafes around Independence Square serve excellent iced drip coffee at low prices.