Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster

The Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster in Nanjing County is the most photographed grouping of earthen roundhouses in China: four circular tulou built at different times between 1796 and 1936, arranged around one older square tulou from 1658, all sitting in a natural hollow on a terraced hillside. The cluster has an accidental visual harmony — no one designed the composition — that has made it an enduring image of rural China.

The viewpoint above the cluster is reached by a short path from the village entrance; the viewing platform is the most crowded spot at the site, particularly at sunrise and sunset when tour groups arrive. The buildings themselves are open to visitors and several are operating as small guesthouses and teahouses, the families who own them continuing to live alongside the tourists. The village of Shuyang below the cluster has basic accommodation and restaurants. The cluster is in Nanjing County, about 60 kilometres from Zhangzhou city, and most easily visited from there or from Xiamen (approximately 2 hours by road).

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A story
The Tianluokeng cluster's nickname — "four dishes and one soup" — comes from its appearance from the viewpoint above: four circular tulou arranged around a square one in the hollow of a natural terrace, the composition suggesting a traditional Chinese meal layout with the communal dish in the centre. The comparison was made by a local tourism official in the 1980s and has become so standardised that it now appears in every Chinese description of the place. Whether you find the metaphor apt or forced, the view from the path above at sunrise, with mist filling the valley and only the rooflines visible, makes the image irrelevant.

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