Longsheng is the town most visitors use as a base for the Dragon's Backbone Rice Terraces — a system of cascading paddies carved into steep mountain slopes by the Zhuang and Yao minorities over several centuries. The terraces are genuinely spectacular, particularly in late May when the flooded fields catch the sky and create reflections that compound the dizzying geometry of the hillsides. The name comes from the pattern they make: from the high viewpoints the terraces do look like scales on a dragon's back.
There are two main terrace areas, both requiring a minibus from the parking areas and then hiking on stone paths between the villages. Ping'An is closer and more visited; Dazhai (also called Jinkeng) is further but rewards the effort with the best views. The walk between the two areas, crossing the ridge between the two valleys, is a full day's hiking and one of the best routes in the area. Yao women in the villages maintain hair so long it pools at their feet, a tradition they are very willing to display for a small fee.
The town of Longsheng itself is a functional market town with nothing much to recommend it beyond the hot spring resort on the outskirts, which makes a reasonable end to a day of hiking. Most visitors come from Guilin on a day trip or stay one or two nights in the guesthouses inside the terrace villages, which is much better — the crowds thin out by late afternoon and the early morning light on the terraces is worth the overnight.
Getting here takes about two hours from Guilin by bus. The entrance fee covers both terrace areas and the minibuses within the park. Stone paths between villages are well maintained but steep; porters with A-frames are available for the determined or the luggage-burdened.