Qionghai
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Qionghai

Qionghai

East Hainan river city known for Jiaji duck and the Red Detachment of Women memorial.

Qionghai sits on the Wanquan River on Hainan's east coast, midway between Haikou and Sanya, and is known across China primarily for two things: Jiaji duck, one of the four famous dishes of Hainanese cuisine, slow-braised with herbs and served at low wooden tables along the riverbank; and the Red Detachment of Women, the real-life female Communist military unit whose story became one of the most famous revolutionary ballets of the Mao era. The memorial park dedicated to that unit is still a significant draw for Chinese tour groups.

The city's connection to the overseas Hainanese diaspora in Southeast Asia is strong — Qionghai is the ancestral hometown of a large portion of Hainanese communities in Thailand, Malaysia, and Vietnam — and this gives it a quiet international consciousness unusual in a county-level city. The Coconut Village Battle Site commemorates a 1927 engagement that was the first battle of the Chinese Civil War fought on Hainan, and the small museum attached to it has the slightly melancholy quality of a conflict that most outsiders have never heard of but that matters enormously to those who grew up nearby.

For most travellers Qionghai works best as a lunch stop: arrive by high-speed rail from Haikou, eat duck at a riverside restaurant, visit whichever monument your travelling companions can agree on, and continue south. Bo'ao, with its beaches and fishing port, is only half an hour away by road.

Guide

Getting There

Qionghai is on the east-coast branch of the Hainan Ring Railway, with Qionghai Railway Station (coordinates: 19.241°N, 110.488°E) connecting to Haikou in about 45 minutes and to Sanya in under an hour. The station is a few kilometres east of the city centre; taxis cover the distance in 10 minutes. From Haikou by expressway takes about 90 minutes; from Sanya about the same.

The small Qionghai Bo'ao Airport has limited domestic connections to major mainland cities. Most travellers arrive by high-speed train, which is the most convenient option given the frequency of services and the proximity to Haikou and Sanya. Bo'ao is 30 minutes from Qionghai by road and can be reached by local bus or taxi.