Enshi Yulu Tea

Enshi Yulu is the regional specialty tea of western Hubei: a steamed green tea grown at altitude in the Wuling Mountains and processed by a technique that sets it apart from the pan-fried green teas that dominate most of China. The name means "jade dew" — a reference to the silvery-green sheen of the finished leaf — and the flavour is clean, sweet, and slightly oceanic in the Japanese green tea way. It is one of the better and less celebrated teas in China.

Several tea houses in Enshi city serve and sell Yulu properly: brewed in a glass vessel at the right temperature with enough leaf to give the full flavour. The best of these are in the older parts of the city near the traditional quarter. If you want to buy tea to take home, look for the spring harvest (April–May); the winter harvest is less complex. The mountains around Enshi grow the tea at elevations between 800 and 1,500 metres, and the combination of altitude, cloud cover, and the area's distinctive soil produces a character that is not replicated anywhere else.

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Enshi Yulu is processed by steaming rather than pan-frying — a technique borrowed from Japanese green tea production in the early twentieth century, when a Japanese tea master introduced the method to Hubei growers. The result is a tea with a distinctively grassy, sweet flavour profile closer to Japanese sencha than to most Chinese greens, and a needle-shaped dry leaf that is unusual among mainland Chinese teas. Outside Hubei, it remains little known.

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